How to Make a Simple Bookcover

Recently, a good friend of mine gave me a copy of her favorite book and we have been meeting regularly to discuss it.  Since I am the type of person who likes to keep mementos that remind me of those I love, I wanted to protect the book from the wear and tear that comes from lugging it around in my bag.  So I got out the sewing machine, dug through my fabric stash and came up with a simple book cover that even has a small pocket on the front for holding notes and a pencil.

I had fun making the cover, so I decided to share the instructions.

Materials Required:
1 fat quarter of your favorite fabric (if your book is large, you may need a bigger piece of fabric).  If you want the inside lining to be a coordinating fabric, pick two of your favorite pieces.  You could even make the strap and the pocket different fabrics if you wanted to.  Use your creativity and make it yours.

A piece of non-fusible lightweight interfacing the size of your book. 

One cute button (you could use a snap or Velcro if you want to or if you don't have a buttonhole feature on your sewing machine).

Instructions:
1. Measure your book.  First, measure the width of the front cover (side to side), multiply that measurement by 2, then add the thickness of the book.  So, if your book is 6 inches wide and 1 inch thick, your overall measurement would be 13 inches (6 x 2 + 1).  Now, add 4 1/2 inches to your total - this allows for two inches of fold over to hold each cover and 1/4" seam allowance.  This is the total width of fabric you will need.  Now measure the height of the book and add 1 inch.  This is the total height of the fabric you will need.  Cut two pieces of fabric and one piece of interfacing this size (the width and height you figured).

2. Pin all three layers together - the right sides of the fabric together and then the interfacing on top. Using a 1/4 inch seam allowance, stitch the two long sides and one short side together.

3. Carefully trim the edges you just stitched close to the seam and trim the corners on a diagonal to prevent too much bulk in the finished cover.

 

4. Now fold in the raw edges of the open side of the cover and pin.  You will stitch this closed when you top stitch around the cover. 

5. Now, if you want to add a pocket to your bookcover, cut a piece of fabric twice the height you wish the pocket to be. For example, if you want the overall size of the pocket to be approximately 4 inches wide and 5 inches high, you need to cut a piece of fabric 4 inches wide by 10 inches high. Fold the fabric in half (right sides together) so you have a piece 4 inches x 5 inches. Pin the edges and stitch the sides, leaving the edge directly across from the fold open. Trim seams and turn right sides out.

6. Turn the bottom unfinished edge of the pocket in and pin to hold them so the raw edges will be finished when you topstitch the cover.  Now, place the pocket on the front of the bookcover (or the back - wherever you want the pocket to be).  If you are placing it on the front, measure two inches from the right edge and align the pocket with the bottom edge of the cover (the two inches on the right will be folded over to hold the book's cover). 

7. Stitch the right and left sides of the pocket to the cover. - carefully stitching near the edge of the pocket.  Backstitch the seam at the top edge of the pocket for reinforcement. 

8. Now it is time to top stitch around the cover.  Carefully pin through all three layers of the cover (five layers at the bottom edge of the pocket - don't forget to make sure the pocket's raw edge on the bottom is turned in).  Pinning will prevent the layers from sliding.  Stitch all the way around the book cover as close to the edge as possible, making sure you stitch across the bottom of your pocket. 

9. Now it is time to make the strap that closes the book (if you want one - if not, skip to step 11).  Cut two strips approximately 5 inches plus the total thickness of your book plus 1/2 inch seam allowance (if the book is 1 inch thick, cut two straps 6 1/2 inches long by appoximately 2 inches wide).  Pin right sides together and stitch the two long sides and one short side using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  Trim the seam allowances and the corners to prevent bulk.  Turn right sides out and fold in the raw edges of the open end.  Carefully top stitch around the strap.  If you are going to use a button closure, stitch a button hole in the center of one end of the strap - otherwise, proceed to the next step.

10. Now, measure two inches from the end of the strap opposite the buttonhole and place the two inch mark two inches from the end of the book cover.  (The two inches on the book cover is the piece that will be folded over to hold the back cover of the book).  Place the strap on the back of the cover so that when it is wrapped around the front of the book, the button ends up at the top edge of the pocket.  Stitch the strap on the book cover.  I anchor the strap by stitching the narrow end, another line across the space two inches from the edge of the book cover and then along the top and bottom edges between those two stitch lines so that the strap is stitched in a square pattern.

 11. Now it is time to stitch the fold-over portions.  With the pocket facing up, fold the right edge cover under 2 inches, carefully lining up the top and bottom edges and pin.  Carefully stitch along the top and bottom directly over the top stitching you placed earlier and backstitching at the edges for strength.  Repeat on the back of the cover. 

12.  Your bookcover should look like this.  Now, fold the cover in half and estimate where the button should be attached allowing for the thickness of the book.  Stitch the button to the front of the pocket (if you added a pocket) so the button doesn't interfere with what is in the pocket.  If you didn't add a button, but want to use a snap or Velcro, attach it at this point. 

13. You are finished!  I made one of these covers to be reversible by adding a pocket and strap to the other side.  The extra strap just tucks inside under the book's cover when it is not needed.  Just be careful when you are attaching the pockets and the straps that you don't stitch over the pocket and strap you have already placed (I did that and then had to use my stitch ripper! Ugh!).

Congratulations!  You now have a book cover to use to protect your favorite book (or to hide your copy of Fifty Shades of Gray if you are reading it in public!)

Thanks for taking the time to read this.  I would love to hear your comments and see pics of your finished covers.

How to Make A Carseat for Your American Girl

Doll, 18" Doll or Favorite Stuffed Friend

My daughter loves to take her American Girl doll everywhere we go, but she was never happy with where her doll had to sit.  If she sat on the seat, she "couldn't see out the window" and she would tip over, strapping her into the seat belt with my daughter wasn't safe and setting her on the floor when all the seats were occupied was just not acceptable!  So Mom had to come up with something to remedy the situation.  My solution is shown in the picture above and my daughter loves it.  Not only will her American Girl doll sit in the seat securely, but recently she received a stuffed kitten that sat in the seat perfectly also!

The following instructions will show you how I made the car seat (PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are meant to be used to make a seat for a toy - NOT a living pet or a child.  Please do not make this seat for anything other than to hold a child's toy). 

Materials Needed:

1. Hard sided plastic basket (approximately 9" x 6" x 6" deep) - I purchased this one in the bathroom accessories section of TJ Maxx.

2. Tin snips.

3. A scrap of fabric for lining (size of fabric depends on the size of your basket - I used a Fat Quarter for my daughter's doll's seat).

4. Quilt batting for the liner (the same size as the fabric scrap).

5. Adjustable nylon shoulder strap from old duffle bag or camera bag - it needs to have a clip or s-hook on either end.

INSTRUCTIONS:

First, use the tin snips to cut an opening in the narrow end of the basket for the doll's legs to slide through (remove the basket's handle first).  The basket is easy to cut if you put the point of the tin snips through the holes in the basket. Discard cut out pieces.  

Next, measure the overall size of your basket.  You will use these measurements to make your liner pattern.  I will use a basket that is 6" x 9" x 6" deep as an example. 

Measure the length and width of your basket and draw a rectangle on a piece of paper that is that size.  (My rectangle would be 6" x 9").  Now, measure the depth of your basket (mine is 6" deep).  On one short side of your rectangle drawing, extend your rectangle out approximately 1.5 times the depth of your basket (mine would extend out another 9 inches on the short end).  If your fabric scrap is not big enough - don't worry - the liner doesn't have to be perfect.  You just need to make the basic shape to fit inside the basket.  The liner can be made to be thick and cushiony, thin and flat, or anything in between.  Also, any type of fabric can be used - cotton, denim, faux fur, use your imagination!

Continue extending the rectangle out on the two longer sides - The size of the extension you make on the rectangle will determine how much of the cushion will go up the sides of the seat and over the edge if desired. 

On the remaining short side, extend the rectangle out at least a couple of inches so the seat liner will have enough length to fold down over the opening you cut in the end of the basket.  This will cover any rough edges made by the tin snips.  When your pattern is finished, you will have a + shaped pattern. 

Test your liner in the basket and make sure the liner fits inside the basket, up the sides, over the edges if you desire and through the opening you cut in the end.  It should hang down slightly through the opening.  If everything seems to fit okay (it doesn't have to be perfect), cut two pieces of fabric using this pattern and cut one piece of liner material (quilt batting, flannel, fleece, even an old sweatshirt piece will all work for the cushioning in the middle of the seat liner). 

Stitch the two fabric layers and one cushion layer together (stitch the right sides together so the liner can be then turned right side out and the stitching will be hidden inside).  Carefully snip each corner of the liner and turn the liner right side out.  Stitch the opening you used to turn the liner right side out closed.  Your liner is now complete.  If you would like your liner quilted, you may add the quilting stitches or design now. 

Now, place your liner into the basket, lining up the short and long edges. 

Next, fold the edges of the liner over the top edge of the basket and stitch in place, guiding your stitches through the holes in the basket so the liner stays securely.  Continue along each side until you are satisfied that the liner will stay in place. 

Next, use a scrap of your fabric and cushion to make a liner piece to cover the top bar of the seat.  This will cover the rough edges made by the tin snips.  Simply measure the length of the opening and and wrap the fabric around the bar and mark the length needed to wrap around the bar.  Again, cut two pieces of fabric and one piece of cushion material.  Stitch the fabric and cushion the same way you stitched the liner.  Turn right side out and stitch the opening closed. 

Now, wrap the bar with the liner piece you just made and hand stitch it along the length so the bar and any rough edges are completely covered. 

Carefully go over the seat and the liner and make sure all rough edges are covered and the liner is securely stitched and attached to the basket. 

Now, make the strap that will hold the doll's seat to the seat in the car using the shoulder strap from an old duffle bag, camera bag, etc.  The strap needs to have a clip or an S-hook on each end.  My car has bucket seats, so attaching the strap to the long side of the basket works the best so the doll can sit next to my daughter (see the first picture).  We have also moved the strap to the back edge of the basket and hung the seat from the headrest at times.  The hooks on the strap in this picture are quite narrow, so I clipped off the straight piece that closes the hook leaving only the hook shape to hang the basket from.  The weight of the doll and gravity help keep the basket hanging from the hooks when it is in place. 

You are now finished!  Your child's favorite toy has her very own place to sit in the car!  This may even work on the back of a chair in a restaurant! 

How to Turn Children's Tap Shoes into Slip Ons

Most children's beginning tap shoes are similar to the style above - the traditional patent leather Mary Jane style.  Unfortunately, these shoes usually come with black grosgrain ribbon laces that need to be tied and ultimately get lost.  I have never been able to find replacement laces for children's tap shoes.  They can be replaced with a piece of matching 1/4 inch grosgrain ribbon, but the ends will fray if they are not sealed and, they still need to be tied if your dancer cannot tie his or her own shoes (boys oxford style tap shoes usually have laces that are easier to replace - flat cotton or round type laces). 

It is very easy to turn this style of tap shoes into slip ons. All you need is two large shank-style buttons and about four inches of round elastic in a color to match the shoes (have you seen the adorable light pink tap shoes?).  A slender small hair tie will also work.  Be creative with your button choice (as long as your dance instructor doesn't mind) - this button is shiny black with crystals.  How about some of those cute colorful daisy shaped buttons?

Tie a knot in the end of the round elastic (skip this step if you are using a hair tie).  Thread the elastic (or hair tie) through the shank of the button.

Push the elastic loop on one side of the shank through the loop on the other side of the shank and pull it tight leaving the button secured on the elastic loop.

Thread the large loop you now have attached to the button through both eyelets of the tap shoe.

Place the elastic loop over the button.  You are finished!  Now, the shoe can be pulled open enough for a little dancer's foot to slide in and the elastic pulls tight to hold the shoe on.  Now make another elastic tie for the other shoe.  No shoe tying needed!  Make several sets with different buttons and your dancer can change her look whenever she wants to!

How to Repair Ballet Slippers

Supplies Needed

How to Repair Ballet Slippers

Most ballet slippers (not pointe shoes) have an elastic lace that runs around the upper edge of the shoe and ties in the front on top of the foot.  This round elastic lace is added so the shoe can be tightened around the dancer's foot.  Most experienced dancers will tie this elastic and either cut off the ends or tuck them inside the shoe after it is on their foot.  Unfortunately, if a tight square knot is not made before the ends are clipped, the knot may come untied and the elastic will slip back inside the casing.  Fortunately, this is fixable and your ballet slipper will be just fine. 

All that is needed to repair your shoe is a paperclip, strong thread, a fine needle, a stitch ripper and a bobby pin (we all know dancer's have bobby pins everywhere!).  Before beginning, use a pair of pliers and bend the ends of your bobby pin straight so they make a straight line. 



Next, feel along the elastic casing at the top of the slipper until you feel the end of the elastic.  Use your stitch ripper and remove just two or three stitches to open the casing and expose the elastic lace. 

Now, use your needle and thread (I prefer to use a heavy weight thread like hand quilting thread) and run a stitch through the round elastic about 1/4 inch from the end of the elastic. Tie a knot in the thread so it makes a loop. You will have a circle of thread hanging from the end of the elastic lace.

Next, slip your bobby pin through the loop in the thread and use the bobby pin as a "needle".

Now, guide your bobby pin through the remaining casing until it comes out the original opening for the elastic lace.

Once the bobby pin appears, gently pull it and the elastic lace through the casing and out through the original opening.  If only one side of the shoes elastic lace had disappeared into the casing, you can now tie a very tight square knot in the two ends of the lace.  If the other end of the lace is also inside the casing on the other side of the shoe, slip a paperclip through the circle of thread to prevent the lace from boinging back up inside the casing and repeat the above steps on the other side of the elastic lace.

Once the elastic lace is tightly tied and the shoe fits properly again, clip off the thread loops. 

Now, repair the hole you made in the casing when you opened it with a small amount of good quality fabric glue (I held the casing closed with a binder clip while the glue dried) and once the glue has dried, your shoe is ready to dance again. 

Happy dancing!